Baking & Snack - June 2017 - 85

R&D INSIGHTS
David Busken
dfbusken@gmail.com

Growing
Gluten-Free Options

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This old formulating challenge is not without new solutions.

Gluten-free is not going away despite what some people
may say. That was my conclusion after I attended the
Natural Products Expo West in Anaheim, where I was
surprised to see the amount of gluten-free products.
When developing these baked goods, the two challenges formulators face include structure and gas retention. The trick involves getting the structure to set up
while the gases, whether from yeast or chemical leavening, are still being held.
A lattice from proteins, sugar crystallization in dry
crisp sweet products, and cohesive-type hydrocolloids
and carbohydrates can provide true structure
For the lattice-protein structures, eggs are the obvious ingredient and probably the easiest. Some whey
protein isolates also provide structure, but watch what
they do to eating quality and cost. Another good option is oat flour, which hasn't been used much before
because of its limited availability on the market. That
has now changed. It has both protein and fibers that
form films, hold in gas and seem to set up in a baked
product creating an open texture. It also features beta
glucan, which isn't just good for the heart; it's also a big
help for gluten-free products.
Common rice flour, tapioca starch/flour and potato blends tend to absorb a lot of water and give the
gummy texture characteristic of many early gluten-free
muffins and breads. In the pre-gel form, however, they
can work very well.
The type of rice flour can make a huge difference in
a product's texture. Common long-grain rice is used
to make most rice flours, and no matter how fine the
mesh, it will have that sandy mouthfeel. This is where

using flours made from short- or medium-grain rice
can make a difference.
Newer, more recognized flour sources include legumes like lentils, peas and chickpeas. These feature
higher levels of proteins and fibers compared with
traditional grains. Despite the better nutritional profile, they are not considered whole grains, a claim
that's often sought after. Muffins and cookies made
with heat-treated forms of legumes are near identical to proteins containing gluten. Part of the excellent
functionality of the legume-based flours is their ability to hold in gases as well.
For gas retention, film formation is needed to get lift
and cohesiveness in the product. The most common
is xanthan gum that gives products a network of film
formers to hold the gases in combination with eggs
in the product. Together with a proper blend of flours
that don't absorb too much water, the result is a nice
product. I wouldn't be surprised if more specialized
gums come out on the market duplicating and improving on the functionalities of xanthan gum. Oat flour
helps in forming films and for holding gases.
Starches are typically designed to keep fat out of
fried foods. This is where potato starches come into
play in gluten-free: They form excellent films. The
negative is they absorb a fair amount of water. That
balance of absorption and functionality needs to be
achieved in the formulation.
Gluten provides product cohesiveness in products
through structure and film to hold the gases of leavening agents. Duplicate these in your gluten-free product, and you have a winner.

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Baking & Snack - June 2017

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