Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 34
THE SAUSAGE REPORT
At San Francisco's
Boulevard Restaurant,
sausage plays an important
role on the menu. Sausagestuffed roasted, boneless
quail (top and lower
right) is one example. A
composed salad of diced
green chorizo with roasted
pumpkin seeds (lower
left) utilizes the sous vide
cooking method. Photos:
Stuart Brinin Photography
34
SAUSAGE ON THE BOULEVARD
Boulevard Restaurant in San Francisco has
been a top-rated restaurant for its 22 years of
operation. It received a James Beard award
for best restaurant in the country in 2012.
Since chef/owner Nancy Oakes is also my
wife and one of my first customers, sausage
has always been an essential element of her
cuisine. The andouille that she purchased
from me long ago played a vital role in her
food, but she has always produced housemade sausages as well.
Because the Boulevard sells 70 to 80
Berkshire pork rib racks a week, it always has
a lot of great trim, which finds its way into
MEAT+ POULTRY | 02.16 | www.meatpoultry.com
sausage, according to Dana Younkin, Boulevard's
chef du duisine. There are several young chefs
in the kitchen who are anxious to learn from
Boulevard's long-standing sausage-making
tradition and have taken on the task of sausage
making. Since the amounts are relatively small,
these chefs make the sausage themselves, and it
is not relegated to prep cooks.
Philosophically, making its own sausage
fits well into the Boulevard's farm-to-table
concepts. Over the years the sausage often
incorporates local foraged ingredients such as
porcinis, morels, wild herbs and local greens.
Younkin says Boulevard is currently
producing a Mexican-inspired green chorizo
and a quail sausage made from the legs and
stuffed into boneless roasted quail. The green
chorizo is made with fresh cilantro, parsley,
ground pecans, pumpkin seeds, hazel nuts and
fresh green chilis. It is not stuffed into casings,
but instead placed into a vacuum-sealed bag
and cooked in a 140° F water bath (called
sous vide, many restaurants use this method
to gently cook proteins and vegetables). Once
cooked, the sausage is diced and used in an
appetizer dish with roasted octopus, pumpkin
seeds and Huitlacoche (a corn fungus). While
I wouldn't categorize this dish as "Mexican," it
does have a distinct Southwest profile.
The sausage stuffed quail is made with the
legs and thighs, fat from diced foie gras and fresh
herbs. It is stuffed directly into the quail cavity.
Nduja is a spreadable soft Calabrian
salami used in Calabria as a flavor component
for pastas, sauces and other dishes, and is
popular at Boulevard as well. The kitchen
attempted to make its own version which was
satisfactory but now buys from Nduja Artisan
in Chicago because it is superior and does not
take up valuable space needed to age. It has
been used in many dishes including risotto,
steamed mussels, vegetables, scallops, beans
and even bread.
Younkin, like many other creative chefs
of her generation, is always looking for new
and exciting ingredients to inspire new dishes
and ideas. When asked what it would take to
get her to buy other sausages that meet her
criteria, she says she would be open to trying
different meats in her recipes such as heirloom
pork breeds like Red Wattle, American Guinea
or Mule Foot as well as game meats such as
wild boar, elk or rabbit.
http://www.meatpoultry.com
Meat + Poultry - February 2016
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Meat + Poultry - February 2016
Meat + Poultry - February 2016
TABLE OF CONTENTS
COMMENTARY - Proud to be a partner
BUSINESS NOTES - TYSON LEGEND DIES
AI CONCERNS RISE IN INDIANA
CAGE-FREE EGG BANDWAGON GROWS LARGER
COBB-VANTRESS TO INVEST $22M IN FEED MILL
NAFTA PARTNERS SIGN AI AGREEMENT
WALMART TO CLOSE 269 STORES
SIMMONS ANNOUNCES EXPANSION
WASHINGTON - An unanswerable question, naturally
COVER STORY - CULTIVATING PARTNERSHIPS
THE SAUSAGE REPORT - Sausage du jour
Transcending tradition
The numbers
Banking on hot dogs
FOOD SAFETY - A dangerous directive
CDC: SALMONELLA A GROWING THREAT IN GROUND BEEF
PACKAGING SOLUTIONS - In pursuit of packaging
AT HOME, A HIGH DEMAND FOR CASE-READY
INGREDIENT ISSUES - All over the map
SMALL BUSINESS MATTERS - Sizeable obstacles
MEAT-MINDED - TAKIN' BACON TO NEW PLACES
INNOVATION INSIGHT - EPIC future
LABOR - Reducing workplace violence
SHOWCASE
NAMES IN THE NEWS
CLASSIFIEDS
ADVERTISERS
THE INSIDER
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - TABLE OF CONTENTS
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 2
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 3
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 4
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 5
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 6
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 7
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - COMMENTARY - Proud to be a partner
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 9
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - CAGE-FREE EGG BANDWAGON GROWS LARGER
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - NAFTA PARTNERS SIGN AI AGREEMENT
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - SIMMONS ANNOUNCES EXPANSION
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 13
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - WASHINGTON - An unanswerable question, naturally
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 15
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - COVER STORY - CULTIVATING PARTNERSHIPS
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 17
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 18
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 19
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 20
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 21
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 22
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 23
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 24
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 25
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 26
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 27
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 28
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 29
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - THE SAUSAGE REPORT - Sausage du jour
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 31
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 32
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 33
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 34
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 35
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - Transcending tradition
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 37
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 38
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 39
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - The numbers
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 41
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - Banking on hot dogs
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 43
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 44
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 45
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 46
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 47
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 48
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 49
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 50
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 51
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - FOOD SAFETY - A dangerous directive
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 53
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - CDC: SALMONELLA A GROWING THREAT IN GROUND BEEF
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 55
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 56
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 57
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 58
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 59
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - PACKAGING SOLUTIONS - In pursuit of packaging
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 61
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - AT HOME, A HIGH DEMAND FOR CASE-READY
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 63
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 64
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 65
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - INGREDIENT ISSUES - All over the map
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 67
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 68
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 69
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 70
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 71
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - SMALL BUSINESS MATTERS - Sizeable obstacles
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 73
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 74
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 75
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - MEAT-MINDED - TAKIN' BACON TO NEW PLACES
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 77
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - INNOVATION INSIGHT - EPIC future
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 79
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 80
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 81
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 82
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 83
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 84
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 85
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - LABOR - Reducing workplace violence
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 87
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - SHOWCASE
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 89
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - NAMES IN THE NEWS
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 91
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - CLASSIFIEDS
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 93
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 94
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 95
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 96
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - ADVERTISERS
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - THE INSIDER
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 99
Meat + Poultry - February 2016 - 100
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