Culinology - June 2019 - 19

Premium butters
US federal regulations require butter be at
least 80% milkfat. That is what most commercial manufacturers target since milkfat
is expensive compared to the about 18%
water that butter still contains. The miniscule
remainder is solids, including protein, carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals.
Throughout most of Europe, butter contains a minimum of 82% milkfat, with many
companies claiming levels as high as 85%.
The extra milkfat results in a softer, richertasting butter.
The milk and cream used in most
European-style butters is often cultured with
lactic acid bacteria. This gives the butter a
tangy taste. American butter may also be cultured, which adds a layer of richness.
Both types of butters come salted and
unsalted and are appreciated by product developers for their excellent sautéing, laminating and flavoring abilities. But, it's the further
refined butters that make dishes standout.
Compound butters, also known as finishing
butters, for example, are infused with fresh
herbs, spices, chopped fruits and vegetables,
US federal regulations require butter to be at
least 80% milkfat, while Europe requires 82%.
Epicurean Butter

or even sweet substances like caramel, chocolate or maple syrup.
"Compound butters have been used in
French cooking since the 1800s," said John
Hubschman, co-founder, Epicurean Butter,
Denver. "To make them on your own requires
having fresh herbs and spices on hand. We
offer a speed-scratch solution, giving chefs
access to premium, often rare ingredients,

such as Italian truffles. This also saves on labor and ensures consistency.
Another premium milkfat is clarified butter,
which is made by heating butter to the point
where water evaporates and the milk solids
separate from the fat and are removed. The
finished product is almost 100% pure milkfat.

Ghee
Ghee, also known as ghrita, is a type of
clarified butter. It originated in India and is
now commonly used in Middle Eastern and
Asian cuisines. In the production of ghee,
the milk solids are cooked long enough to
caramelize, imparting a nutty flavor to the final
product. The solids are then removed. While
still in liquid form, flavors and salts may be
added for an extra culinary experience.
Because the milk solids are the most heatsensitive component of butter, by removing
them, the smoke point increases. This is the
highest temperature one may safely heat a fat
or oil before it starts to oxidize and burn. The
smoke point of commercial butter is 350 degree F, while with clarified butters, the smoke
point increases significantly, often to as much
as 450 degree F, making it ideal for slowcooking methods.
Boston-based Christopher Kimball's Milk
Street, an instructional food preparation organization, teaches that ghee is ideal for sautéing and searing steaks, chops, chicken and
fish. Ideas for side dishes include sautéing
greens or green beans in ghee and tossing
with toasted slivered almonds, lemon juice
and flaky salt to finish, according to Matthew
Card, food editor.
"Try tossing fresh-cooked egg noodles
with melted ghee, lots of poppy seeds and
coarse-ground black pepper and salt," he
said. "Pair this with roasted or sautéed meats,
stew or even top with a fried egg. On the
sweet side, swirl melted ghee over oatmeal
and dust with a pinch each of cardamom
and cinnamon."
Ryan Kukuruzovic, corporate chef, Wixon,
St. Francis, Wis., uses ghee to make niter kibbeh, which has its roots in Ethiopian cuisine.
"Spices such as cardamom, cumin, fenugreek, coriander and cinnamon are simmered
in the ghee then strained," he said. "I enjoy
making fresh naan bread with niter kibbeh; although the highly flavored ghee can be used
in many applications."
JUNE 2019 | Culinology |

Culinology - June 2019

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