Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 8
DELIGHTFUL DIVERSIONS
Southern Charm
by Margaret Littman, Cardinal News
Bringing Appalachian food to the masses
C
hef Sean Brock has won
multiple James Beard Awards
(the Academy Awards of the
restaurant business). His cookbooks
have been on The New York Times
bestseller list. He's been lauded by major
food publications including Food &
Wine and Bon Appetit. But if you get
a minute or three to talk to him, it is
Wise County, Va., that is likely to come
up in conversation first.
" I will talk to anyone who will talk
to me about Appalachia before it is too
late, " he says.
Brock, 45, is from Pound, Va., and
lived there until he was a young teen.
His years there, cooking and foraging
in Southwest Virginia, were among his
most formative. In May, Brock was the
keynote speaker at the eighth annual
Southwest Virginia Economic Forum
at the University of Virginia's College
at Wise. He told the audience about the
" night and day " experience of the food
6 ● Cooperative Living ●
he ate at his grandmother's knee
and those that were served in the
first restaurants where he worked.
" I remember coming back and
telling her, 'You wouldn't believe
this lettuce they're making people
pay for at this restaurant.' Because
I grew up eating hers directly from
the garden. And that flavor of the field,
that feeling of being in the field and
eating food while it's still warm from
the sun and the smell of the dirt is still
in the air, inspired me very early, " he told
attendees.
Brock drove to that Wise County
event from Nashville, where he now
lives and cooks and runs four different
restaurants: Audrey, June, The
Continental and Joyland.
On his drive back home, he watched
the landscape change. By the time he
reached Johnson City, Tenn., " It felt
like an enormous blanket. I felt that
comfort of the mountains. You read
November-December 2023
about it. People write songs about it.
I felt it, " he says.
Brock's career has primarily been
focused on the foods of the South (in
fact, " South " is the title of his 2019
cookbook) and the repatriation of the
Southern pantry. It was when he was in
the kitchen at McCrady's in Charleston
that he won his first James Beard Award.
Now, in what he calls " the second
half of my career, " Brock is dedicating
himself to what he calls " untapped
traditions and discoveries, " looking to
places like Japan for inspiration.
For example, in the U.S. landowners
struggle with how to eradicate kudzu.
co-opliving.com
PHOTOS BY EMILY DORIO
http://www.co-opliving.com
Cooperative Living November/December 2023
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Cooperative Living November/December 2023
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 1
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 2
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 3
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 4
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 5
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 6
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 7
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 8
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 9
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 10
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 11
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 12
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 13
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 14
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 15
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 16
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 17
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 18
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 19
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 20
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 21
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 22
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 23
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 24
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 25
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 26
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Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 35
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Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 37
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 38
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 39
Cooperative Living November/December 2023 - 40
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